If our mother let us, we’d eat brunch for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

For eggs with oomph we’re headed to Hammersmith’s, a former greasy spoon at Logan and Gerrard. Named after a London borough, this wee corner spot serves accessibly gourmet brunch items like smoked bacon omelettes ($11), steak n’ eggs ($14) and free range duck hash. Everything that comes out of the scrubbed-down open kitchen is sourced in the 'hood like bread from Brick Street Bakery and Steeped and Infused teas. Check the menu board for daily batches of buttery scones made in-house with seasonal Ontario berries. As the weather cools, look out for heartier items like gamey meats, beans on toast and weekly prix-fixe dinners including short ribs and speckled trout with roasted cauliflower.

We’ll take ours with a side order of over-easy. Don’t tell our mum. —Marianne Wisenthal

Hammersmith's, 807 Gerrard Street E., Toronto, 416-792-9043, www.hammersmithsbrunch.com, reservations accepted up to four people

Photo credit: Ayla Newhouse

When you share a handle with one of Manhattan’s hippest hotels, you've got to expect at least a few eye rolls.

But The Bowery, a new 96-seat eatery from the folks at Uniq Lifestyle Entertainment, is truly unique—and totally legit. Using mostly local ingredients (does Lake Ontario have octopi?), Shehata serves up some seriously stand-out dishes. Our favourites included the ricotta gnocchi with wild mushrooms and truffle oil, the grilled octopus with squid ink aioli, and an absolutely amazing aged rib-eye.

And the drinks? Well, lets just say you have not lived until you've had The Lachlan, a sweet and tart cocktail named by and after the hunky Australian barkeep who makes them.

Although it's a bit of a trek for the West-Queen-West foodie folk—being, OMG, a whole one block east of Yonge—it's definitely worth the mission. And hey, it's a lot closer than the one in New York, right? —Carli Stephens-Rothman

55 Colborne Lane, Toronto, www.thebowery.ca

Finally, an Ossington spot as full of fish as every other west-end restaurant is of meat.

Call it nose-to-fin eating. Fishbar, newly opened by William Tavares (Le Gourmand, Salt), has every kind of (mostly) sustainable fish in the sea, from wee smelts ($6) to whole grilled sardines ($7) to tuna loin ($13). Even the drinks are fishy; why isn't every Caesar a shrimp Caesar? Wine list is decent; oysters are musky and fresh.

Dishes are best enjoyed tapas-style, with friends. My favourite? A tangy trout rillette with more crostini on demand. Servers are still getting their sea legs, but food-wise, Fishbar is swimming. —SNP

217 Ossington Ave., Toronto, 647-340-0227, www.fishbar.ca

I love a proper diner: no fake nostalgia or designer stools, just clever, comforting, all-Canadian dishes.

Such a spot is Cardinal Rule, a hole-in-the-wall down on Roncesvalles, at Queen. "New management," says the sign, and a clever new menu, too. On weekdays you can get macaroni-and-cheese maki (fusion food at its least pretentious),sammies (some on gluten-free bread) and meatloaf muffins, to stay or to go.

But brunch is my reason to live, so we went on Sunday for the Hail Caesar Eggs Benny. Y'all heard me: a pair of perfect orbs poached in Clamato juice, layered with pickles, worcestershire celery salsa and genoa salami (I subbed for veggie bacon, which is just smoked tofu) atop a white english muffin. For a perfect side, there are super-savoury, excellently potato latkes.

Cardinal Rules. But you knew I'd say that, didn't you? —SNP

5 Roncesvalles Ave., Toronto, 647-352-0202, www.cardinalrulerestaurant.com

School dinners never tasted so good.

The owners of Black Skirt used reclaimed tiles and lumber from an old school house to create their new College West space. Part alimentari, part all-evening hangout, it's like a visit to the nonna you never had. We especially like the imported salumi and antipasti displayed in vintage bowls, bookshelves lined with sauces and wooden desks filled with chocolate.  

Everything on the Calabrese-meets-Sicilian menu is available for take-out, but you’ll want to park your own black skirt on a school chair for fresh bread served in paper bags with muddled pots of ammoghio, grilled lamb chops ($25) and molten chocolate cake ($7.50) smothered in mascarpone sauce (homemade by the owner’s mama).

Deli-cioso. —MW

Black Skirt, 974 College St., Toronto, 416-532-7424, www.blackskirtrestaurant.com

Too many eateries have good taste in everything but the food. Not this new and very French bistro, L'Apero, where the décor belies a beautiful menu—and reminds us that's what matters.

L'Apéro is no resto. It's a proper restaurant, with white tablecloths and velvety red booths. Gainsbourgs sing low through the air: first Serge, then Charlotte. Everything starts, and finishes, with butter.

Chef Michael Tocchetto is “from Bordeaux,” the manager tells us, as though that's all we need to know. Perhaps it is. His dishes are to share, like oversize tapas. Favourites: clever little goat cheese profiteroles, though we could do sans caramel, and a salad of arugula, walnuts and candied apricots ($8); escargots in a garlicky, white wine-drunk sauce that begs for more bread ($12); and a hunk of black cod, its salty skin balanced by almost-sweet basil hollandaise and stewed lentils ($17).

Cocktails, mixed by ex-Drake Hotel bartender Josh, are twisted classics. “The Fedora” is a bourbon sour tinted rosy with grenadine, sprinkled with salt and made fragrant with sage. Gin, sparkling wine, lemon and strawberry comprise “La Fraise Sauvage,” a sweeter French 75.

And for dessert, a hamburger? Oui, with almond “bun,” chocolate ganache “patty,” strawberry-coulis “ketchup” and slice of apricot-jelly “cheese” ($12). Something so slyly faux-American could only be French.

L'Apéro, 81 Church St., Toronto, 416-363-0081.

With baked goods this good, it’s no wonder our server gained 15lbs in Woodlot’s first month in business. “I’m on a diet,” she says. “Please take some of these fresh-out-the-oven buns before I eat them.”

Soft buns, flaky nutella croissants, apple tatin and blueberry scones are just some of the scrumptious things on offer today. By day, Woodlot is a bakery, and by night it’s one of Toronto’s hippest hangouts with an honest, comfort-food menu that warms and delights.

Both the Red Fife parpadelle in a rich wild boar ragu ($20 main) and the roasted haddock gratin  ($19) are tummy-rubbingly good while for dessert the Soma chocolate Pot de Crème ($12) is to die for.

Just leave your diet at the door.

Woodlot, 293 Palmerston Ave., Toronto, 647-342-6307, www.woodlotrestaurant.com

When Canadians go to Europe they want cheese and pastries. When Europeans come here, they want pancakes. And stacks of them.

Treat your guests to a decadent diner meal at The Counter. The Thompson Hotel’s 24-hour eatery takes diner food up a notch with gourmet pancakes, waffles and burgers that will impress even a snooty Parisian palate.

We gorged on the gooey and delicious mac ‘n cheese ($12), loaded burgers ($12) and pancakes stacked as high as the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

The décor is super plush with velvet booths and Cuban tile flooring, while the servers are good-looking twentysomethings sporting gingham bow ties.

The Counter, The Thompson Hotel, 550 Wellington St. W., Toronto, 416-640-7778, http://www.thompsonhotels.com

There are few meals more wholesome than pasta fagioli – macaroni and beans. It’s comfort in a bowl, or even better, in a cast iron saucepan, as it comes at Campagnolo.

In keeping with the meat-focused menu at this new Dundas West restaurant, Campagnolo’s version ($16) is flavoured with smoked hock and topped with giant croutons.

Another hearty dish is the wild boar ragu, tripe, meatballs and spareribs on polenta ($21), and don’t skip on the warm olives and fried artichokes.

If our turkey feast fails, it’s pasta fazool tonight.

Happy Holidays.

Campagnolo, 832 Dundas St. W., Toronto, 416-364-4785, www.campagnolotoronto.com

When it comes to food, Hogtown has a lot to talk about. Getting in on the conversation is PR guy Shawn Rusich, whose blog http://itallstartswithbutter.com is a fantastic resource for the latest and greatest restaurants, bars and venues in town. We asked Shawn to spill on his favourite Holiday locales.

It’s hard to get a table at this time of year. Can you think of a few I’ve-left-it-to-the-last-minute restaurants where diners can go to grab a bite?
A lot of top-notch restaurants don’t take reservations anymore. Toronto’s meat-centric right-of-passage Black Hoof is a spot I frequent. The wait, though not usually too long, is worth it. Café Nervosa usually has a small line, but the smell of garlic makes it better. Luma and Nota Bene are both large enough to accommodate with a short wait. Lastly, ever-popular Enoteca Sociale reserves half of its restaurant for walk-ins.

The office party was a bore. Some decent bar hoping will make up for it though. Where do you suggest?
For a good night, I’ll go to reservation-only Goodnight! on Richmond. If it’s a casual night of beer drinking, we will definitely head to Duggan’s Brewery. Other stops would include, Brockton General (after 11 p.m.) and Parts & Labour.

With friends in town for a few nights, where do you take them for a splash out pre-Christmas spread?
Swan is a staple in my life. Its décor, ambiance, servers and well-prepared food make it a cozy spot for catch-up, especially when it’s snowing. We’ll go to Scott Conant’s Scarpetta as well the newly opened Campagnolo on Dundas. If we can’t get a reservation at either of those, we’ll pop by Union and have some Norman Hardie Pinot Noir at the bar while waiting for a table.

You get a budding gourmand in the office secret Santa. What to give them?
I’d pick up a selection of in-house roasted coffee from Sense Appeal, specifically “K” roast for its subtle scent of citrus. Chocolate truffles from XOXOCAVA, a selection of Hockley Honey, Hello Dollies from Bobette & Belle or a delicious bottle of Ontario Sparkling like Hinterland Rose 2007.

Boxing Day brunch is the best hangover helper. Can you suggest a few?
Luma is the new “It-Spot” for the best brunch in the city thanks to Chef Bangerter. If I’m feeling a bit greasy spoon, I’ll head to Toast in Leslieville or to the tried-and-true Drake Hotel for its southern fried chicken with waffles.