Toronto
February 25th, 2011
The Secret to Spaghetti
In an age of food porn, who knew black and white graphics could be so enticing?
Caz Hildebrand’s bold designs in The Geometry of Pastaare the perfect visual complement to chef Jacob Kenedy’s authentic recipes.
From corzetti to gomiti to rigatoni and ziti, this stunning book reveals everything you need to know about the science, history and philosophy of cooking pasta.
A saucy read for all your carb queens.
$17.52 at Amazon.ca
December 10th, 2010
meat me for dinner
Fresh on the heels of a best new restaurant nod from enRoute magazine, there's no better time to sup at Buca.
Tucked in a charming post and beam boiler room, the artisinal Italian osteria is the perfect spot for a clandestine carnivore affair. Chef Rob Gentile's meat-forward, locally sourced menu changes nightly so it's always fresh and fabulous. We parked ourselves in the cozy back room for bread boards piled with spicy Calabrese sausage, cured pork belly with anise and rich formaggi ($18/3) like blue-veined sheep's milk served with pots of preserves.
Do splurge on the Tartufo Bianco white truffle pizza ($58) and tender lamb skewers before capping off the night with a dish of Italian cream-filled donuts.
Now that's amore.
Buca, 604 King Street W., Toronto, 416-865-1600, www.buca.ca
September 17th, 2010
That's Amore
If you're the type who rejoices at Terroni's ever growing empire then this little tidbit is for you.
The maestros of casual Italian have opened their fab new joint, La Bettola di Terroni on Victoria Street, attached to the bottom end of their popular Osteria Ciceri E Tria.A recent rainy night visit had us seated promptly in the wine-bar style space, which features an abbreviated version of the full Terroni menu. Look for a handful of new and very delicious items on the antipasti end, like the arrancini di modica—deep fried balls of rice filled with mozzarella and ragu—and the wonderfully deep-fried zucchini fritters.
The wine selection has blossomed into a delightful selection of obscure choices, including a tasty pinot nero.
Best dish of the night: the delectable dessert nutella frittelle dolci. Worth the trip alone.
La Bettola di Terroni, 106 Victoria St. (at Richmond St. E.), Toronto, 416-504-9998 (no reservations), www.labettoladiterroni.com
September 2nd, 2010
Feeling Saucy
If spag bog is a weekly staple in your kitchen, it’s time to let loose and get saucy.
After all, Italy’s staple food deserves more than a basic ragu. At Scorcia, in the York Mills area, you’ll find a selection of pasta sauces (from $8) that would impress even the pickiest of nonnas. And for an Italian dinner that’ll knock your Tod’s off, don’t miss out on the antipasti, flavoured oils and aged balsamic vinegars.
One bite, and you’ll feel like you died and went to Rome.
Scorcia, 3421 Yonge St., Toronto, 416-787-8426, www.scorcia.ca
August 6th, 2010
Fresh and Wild
This summer, if you can’t get to a Tuscan table, bring the table to you.
Packed with mouthwateringly fresh recipes from peaches and zabaglione to strawberry risotto, Recipes from an Italian Summer is the perfect way to bring a little dolce into your summer vita. The images are breathtaking, and the recipes are culled from popular holiday spots such as Tuscany, Sicily and Sardinia.
Tonight, it’s faro and shrimp salad, with lots and lots of vino bianco.
At the Cookbook Store, 850 Yonge St.,Toronto, 416-920-2665, www.cook-book.com
July 23rd, 2010
Let's go Al Fresco
Once he realized we were raiding his wine cellar, a friend’s father began to label the bottles “Drink this,” “Not this” and, “This is your inheritance.” We had so much to learn.
Enter Enoteca Sociale from the creators of Pizzeria Libretto. Here, nearly every one of the over 80 wines is available for tasting so you can sample your heart away (from $4).Order food a la carte or try the tasting menu ($45). We recommend starting with the lightly battered zucchini flowers and pea shoots, topped with shaved ricotta ($11)—a seasonal dish, so pounce while you have a chance. The flavourful pappardelle and braised rabbit ($13) and the spicy bucatini all'amatriciana ($12) also hit the spot but necessitate a sweet finale. Try the zeppole with hazelnut pastry cream ($8). It is molto light and lovely.
Top tip? Ask to sit on tree-covered patio, just off bustling Dundas, for the best atmosphere.
Enoteca Sociale, 1288 Dundas St. W., Toronto, 416-534-1200, http://www.sociale.ca
October 9th, 2009
Italian Job
It’s not just French women who don’t get fat. Italian women gorge on garganelli and guzzle Chianti and still stay svelte. The secret? They keep everything piccolo (Italiano for “small”).
The guys behind the Local Kitchen and Wine Bar have portion size just right. Little white dishes come laden with butter-soft gnocchi coated in taleggio and rapini. The breaded olives stuffed with rabbit are scrummy and the Ontario buffalo mozzarella is to die for. All ingredients are sourced from local farmers using sustainable methods. Arctic char is fresh from Georgian Bay and the mozzarella is from Thunder Bay.
The atmosphere is decidedly local too. Vintage community newspaper covers one wall, a wild boar’s head hangs above the door, and old milk crates substitute as wine shelving.
“If I owned a restaurant, it would be exactly like this,” says the diner to our left.
What better compliment?
Local Kitchen and Wine Bar, 1710 Queen St. W., Toronto, 416-534-6700, www.localkitchen.ca
July 31st, 2009
Naked Lunch
Gnudi: ignudi, nudi, or nudi ravioli are what Florentines call the loosely packed spinach-and-ricotta dumplings that look like slightly overgrown gnocchi.
We asked Greg Bolton of Toronto’s Pantry to share his recipe made with homegrown Red Fife flour ($9.99 for a 2.5 kilo bag) and Ontario Buffalo ricotta.
Ingredients
1lb Buffalo ricotta
1 large egg, beaten
1/3 cup Pecorino Romano cheese, grated super-fine, plus extra for serving
Big pinch of salt
Big pinch of black pepper
3/4 cup Red Fife flour, plus extra for dustingMethod
Get a pot of salted water boiling—preferably a pretty large one.In a large bowl, combine ricotta, egg, cheese, salt, pepper, flour. Mix it up until you're able to roll it into small logs of about an inch in length, then flatten them slightly on a pre-floured surface and flip them around a bit so they're dredged nicely in the flour. Don't be too fussy, imperfection is definitely part of the charm here.
Carefully shake off each log a bit after dusting and lay it off onto a plate or pan. They'll be pretty delicate, so be gentle.
Once all dough has been formed—and your water's at a rapid boil—gently ease the gnudi into the water. Be careful not to overcrowd the pot. If you need to, work in batches.
After 3-4 minutes, the gnudi should be floating on the surface. Fish them out with a slotted spoon and place on warmed plates or a warmed platter if you're eating family style.
Serve with Pantry’s homemade San Marzano sauce ($5.50 for half-litre jar) and some Pecorino cheese.
Pantry, 974 College St., Toronto, 416-364-2495, http://pantry.to
June 19th, 2009
The Big Cheese
Nothing tickles a cheese lover’s nostrils like the pong of a pungent Petite Muenster.
Step into the Lesliville Cheese Market and let your nose do the shopping. With a wide selection of stinky (and non-stinky) cheeses from around the globe (manchego, raclette and blue, to name a few), the new Queen West location is pure fromage heaven. Pick up a buttery baguette, some homemade dips (hummus and edamame is delish), handcrafted Italian salumi, and presto—you’ve got the loveliest weekend lunch imaginable.
The Leslieville Cheese Market, 541 Queen St. W., Toronto, 416-361-3111, www.leslievillecheese.com
May 22nd, 2009
Fast Food
Think Italian, and what’s likely to come to mind is food: basil and tomatoes, pizza, panini, dolci and cappuccino.
At Rapido you’ll find all this plus heaps of authentic southern charm, style and hospitality.Owned by brothers Marco and Carlo Santaguida (they also run a successful catering business down the street), this authentic slice of Italy on the cusp of the Annex opens early to fuel patrons with their morning espresso and brioche ($2.50). At lunchtime, expect a delicious slice of thin crust pizza topped with salmon, mascarpone and spinach ($3.50) or a perfect panino of grilled chicken, peppers and Brie ($5.95).
The space is warm and sun-filled with exposed brick walls, worn wooden shelves (sourced from a farm in Caledon) and unique artworks.
Auguri ragazzi!
Rapido, 966 Bathurst Ave., Toronto, 416-535-1393, www.rapidofoods.com




