Toronto

  • January 20th, 2012

    Paris for rent

    As much as we love room service, crisp linens and a fully loaded mini bar, we’ll forfeit a hotel room for a home away from home.

    Renting an apartment always makes us feel like a local, and the pads on offer over at Haven in Paris are a fantasy realized. This little gem in Montmartre is so charming with its herringbone floors, Louis XVI style chairs and rooftop views. And look at this lovely place in Provence. I could happily spend a few weeks playing house here.

    All properties include a private driver, baby sitter and concierge and a member of the Haven in Paris team will be there to greet you on arrival. Sounds fabulous, doesn’t it? We may never leave. —Athena Tsavliris

    www.haveninparis.com

  • January 11th, 2012

    Gstaad, my love

    Where in the world can you spot Valentino walking his pugs on the high street, Julie Andrews shopping for milk at the Co-op and Polanski sipping tea at the Palace? Only in Gtstaad, my love.

    Toronto editor and perennial Gtsaad-goer, Athena Tsavliris shares her Gstaad loves.

    Tea at Charley’s is such a treat. The mille-feuilles, madeleines and macarons are delicious. It’s a local institution steps away from the ice skating rink.

    Beyond the Hermes bags, baubles and watches, there is a kitchen shop par excellence, that stocks everything from Japanese ceramic knives, Le Creuset pots, Villeroy & Boch china and more fondue sets than you’ve ever seen.

    Forget skiing, people watching at the Palace hotel is the local sport. Harvey Weinstein, Michael Winner, Roman Polanksi and Valentino, were among this year’s sightings. And yes, the King of Couture really is a frightening shade of terracotta.

    Lunch on top of the Eggli is a decadent feast of Croûtes au fromage, Schnitzel and gravy smothered bratwurst. The mountain air makes everyone ravenous.

    The philosopher’s walk between Gstaad and Saanen runs along a river and is a beautiful, peaceful escape from the glitz and buzz of town. On a sunny day, it’s just heavenly.

    —Athena Tsavliris

  • August 19th, 2010

    The Hills Are Alive

    The Swiss Alps are magical in the winter, but summer is glorious too. We swapped our skis for a pair of old hiking boots and hit the hills.

    stay
    This chalet-style hotel is ideal for families with small children. There’s even a kid’s spa with an adventure cave and tree-house sauna. From 195 SFr, www.steigenberger.com/en/Gstaad_Saanen

    do
    From river rafting on the Saane to paragliding high above the mountains there is no shortage of alpine adventure. It’s hard not to belt out "The Sound of Music" as you walk across endless lush green meadows. www.gstaad.ch/en

    eat
    If you’re trekking from Rougemont to Saanen, treat yourself to a fondue at the Sonnenhof. In Gstaad, the restaurant at the Post Hotel serves the best rösti schnitzel dinner you’ll ever eat.

    shop
    With its charming selection of handicrafts, antiques and contemporary décor, the village of Saanen is always worth a visit. For vintage wooden skis, cowbells, furs and antique linens we suggest timing your visit around the annual summer brocante.

     

  • August 12th, 2010

    Cycladic Blue

    Of all the Greek islands, no other achieves simple sophistication quite like Folegandros. Home to endless goat trails, exquisite beaches, a stunning Chora and the warmest people on earth, this Cycladic jewel is worth every step of the journey.

    stay
    Try to find a view more breathtaking than the one from Anemomilos Hotel. Perched on a cliff-edge, this family-run gem is truly unique. Rooms are typically Cycladic with vintage accents. Don’t miss cocktail hour at sunset. From €120. 00 30 22860 41309, www.anemomilosapartments.com

    eat
    Don’t expect souvlaki and chips. The food on Folegandros is really aunthentic—think homemade gigandes (giant beans), bourekia (cheese-filled pies) and freshly caught octopus grilled to perfection. Kritikos (00 30 22860 41219) in the main square serves fantastic pies and meats and Mimi’s in Ano Meria (00 30 22860 41377) is a local institution. Wash everything down with well-iced ouzo.

    do
    Rent an ATV/car and explore the island’s far flung beaches. The more intrepid traveller will come across beaches that will blow you away. Don’t miss Katergo, Ambeli and Aghios Nikolaos. If you’re more of a trekker, there are some extraordinary trails on the island.

    drink
    The town really comes alive after dark when the music and dance begin. Sit on an old stone wall, sip Rakomello (a local drink of Raki and honey) and watch the world go by.

     

  • March 18th, 2010

    Worldly Goods

    What we really treasure from our travels abroad are the unique finds we score at souks, bazaars and little-known street markets.

    Here in Toronto, globetrotters Aristedes Pasparakis and Alexia von Beck are packing their finds into Holy Cow, their colourful Leslieville store.

    We went cuckoo for the bird-shaped garden ornaments ($95-$165) and could not resist the Moroccan baboushkas ($50) in every hue. Snap up some soft Turkish towels (they make the perfect pareo, $59), a handmade paper star from India ($10–$16) and a copy of Pasparakis’ new cookbook, New Greek Cuisine, and you’ll feel like you shopped the globe.

    Bon voyage!

    Holy Cow, 1100 Queen St. E., Toronto, 416-778-6555.


  • January 21st, 2010

    A to Zurich

    If you think that Zurich is wall-to-wall middle-aged bankers, think again. This lively city is a hotbed of students, artists and cool entrepreneurs.

    stay
    Chic, cool and comfortable, The Hotel Greulich is a boutique hotel steps from the city centre. There’s no shortage of fabulous eats in Zurich, but your hotel restaurant ranks among the best. If you visit in the summer make a point to have a cocktail in the charming garden. From $180., www.greulich.ch

    shop
    Forget cuckoo clocks and other kitsch Swiss handicrafts, the retail scene in Zurich is decidedly hip. We found fabulous felt slippers at Hausfink, a gorgeous coral ring at Beatrice Rossi and some sensational specs at Manu Propria.

    eat
    Coco Chanel, Igor Stravinsky, Plácido Domingo and Yves Saint-Laurent have all eaten at the Kronenhalle. Artwork by Klee, Chagall, Matisse, Miró, and Picasso (yes, original) hangs on the walls. And the food at this local mainstay is terrific. The veal (in a cream and mushroom sauce) with rösti is delicious as is bündnerfleisch – thinly sliced, smoked, dried beef. Tip: Be sure to reserve a table downstairs. www.kronenhalle.com

    drink
    The Widder’s floor to ceiling shelves house over 250 varieties of whiskey, and 500 varieties of spirits too. The jazz is good and the red leather banquettes are dangerously comfortable. www.widderhotel.ch

    do
    Don’t leave without a visit to the Kunsthaus gallery, home to the world's largest collection of work by Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti. www.kunsthaus.ch/de

     

  • January 7th, 2010

    Swiss Made

    Snow capped mountains, glorious lakes and fresh alpine air – forget the spa, come to Switzerland and invigorate the mind, body and soul.

    Ten things we love about Europe’s undervalued gem.

    • The sound of cowbells in the Alps

    • Swiss precision

    Sprüngli chocolate boutique, Zurich

    • Raclette (Le Fromagerie at the Palace Hotel, Gstaad is the ultimate)

    • Filet de perches at the Restaurant du Port in Rolle (1180 Rolle, 021-825-1520)

    Ballooning in Chateau d’oex

    • Antiquing in Basel and Vevey

    Watches and jewellery shopping on Geneva's Rue du Rhôn

    • The flea market in Geneva’s Plaine de Plainpalais where locals sell their wares

    • Mountain sport – skiing, trekking, rafting and kayaking

     

  • October 1st, 2009

    Croatia Crawl

    Christened Europe’s new Riviera, the former Communist Croatia’s central Dalmatian Coast is hopping. The spectacular island of Hvar, known for its lavender, is a sun-blessed oasis with Venetian architecture, a rich history and a bustling nightlife.

    stay
    Away from the bustle of the Old Town (but still less than a 10-minute walk), Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort is the ultimate escape. For a dip, hop between the hotel’s cascading pool or opt to float in the adjacent Adriatic (tip: the sea is usually warmer) and sunbathe at the Bonj les Bains with the likes of Ivanka Trump. From $280 a night, Hotel Amfora, Majerovica bb, 21450 Hvar, +385 (0)21 750 750
.

    eat
    The fresh seafood options are endless but Restaurant Bounty, near the entrance to the Old Town and along the harbour, is a must. Always packed, stay near and you’ll eventually snag a table outside. Try the selection of fresh white fish (tip: it’s priced by the kg so ask for smaller portions) and the seafood spaghetti is divine. Restaurant Bounty, 21450 Hvar, +385 21 742 565.

    shop
    The booths set up at the entrance to the Old Town are packed with souvenirs like lavender oils, honey and other trinkets, but a piece by jewellery designer Vanja Mijac is a striking souvenir. Find Mijac's pieces at Bijou Art near the cathedral, Trg Sv Stjepana, 21450 Hvar, +385 (0) 21717 740.

     

  • November 20th, 2008

    BARCELONA GIRLS

    Vicky and Cristina had it right: Eye-popping graffiti, bustling markets, all night jazz and tapas on every street corner—Barcelona is non-stop.

    stay
    The Claris is owned by an avid archaeological collector who keeps his collection in the rooms, bar and entrance of the hotel. Don’t be surprised if you find an Egyptian etching from Napoleon Bonaparte's private collection, or a 1,600-year-old sandstone statue of a Hindu Goddess in your room at this chic and centrally located hotel. From $400. www.derbyhotels.es/

    eat
    Some of Europe’s best chefs are in Barcelona, but the ubiquitous tapas are of a very high standard. Meander from one bar to another in the chic El Born neighbourhood nibbling on jamon, fried calamari, grilled squid, tortilla Catalán and croquettas along the way.

    do
    Take the Gaudi trail up Passeig de Gràcia. If it happens to be a Thursday night, the Casa Fuster plays jazz until the wee hours. Don’t miss the Park Güel, and Gaudi's unfinished masterpice La Sagrada Família cathedral is a must-see.

    shop
    Peppered with precious, one-of-a-kind boutiques that carry local Catalan and Spanish designers, El Born is the place to shop. Check out Coquette, Mercado and On Land.

     

  • July 24th, 2008

    PANAREA DREAMING

    Stunning scenery and jet-set style makes car-free Panarea the jewel of Sicily’s magnificent seven islands.

    stay
    With breathtaking views and a boho-chic vibe, Hotel Raya is the place to stay. Wake early and watch the sunrise from your white-washed terrace and then hop back into bed ‘til noon. From $440, Via San Pietro, Sicily, 00 39 090 983103, www.hotelraya.it

    do
    Snooze on the beach, swim in the sea (watch out for urchins and jellyfish) and stroll the narrow oleander-lined streets. A short sail across the archipelago makes volcanic Stromboli (backdrop for Roberto Rossellini’s classic/D&G’s summer retreat) a perfect day tripper too. www.isolelipari.it/stromboli.htm

    shop
    Hotel Raya owner Myriam Beltrami spends half the year in Indonesia bringing back everything from Balinese baubles to vintage silk sarongs. We couldn’t resist snapping up a blue and white batik bedspread like the ones in every hotel room. Via San Pietro. 00 39 090 983103, Sicily, www.hotelraya.it/en-boutique-panarea.html

    eat
    If it’s simple trattoria food you’re after, Da Adelina’s seafood delights are sure to please. Head back to Raya for coffee, limoncello and dancing by moonlight. Via Comunale del Porto 28, Sicily, 00 39 090 983246.