Any restaurant that reserves tables with a copy of The Gospel of Food has our attention.

Indeed the Farmhouse Tavern’s Chef de Cuisine takes an almost spiritual approach to his farm-driven menu. Daniel Janetos adapts meals weekly choosing seasonal, ethically sourced ingredients from local suppliers (it doesn’t get any closer than a Junction dairy, does it?). Our visit included divine Lake Huron fish (straight from the boat) in bouillabaisse with buttered baby fennel and new Ontario potatoes. Do not miss the hearty Ploughman’s Platter ($22) with Harlequin duck eggs, double smoked in-house bacon, PEI oysters, Glengarry cheese and homemade ice-wine jelly.

Décor is cozy and nostalgic: old family photographs, barnyard doors and mason jars retrieved from grandparents’ rural basements. To top it off, many of the staff came from La Société so service is stellar.

To all this, and the cold craft beers, we declare a hearty Hallelujah. —Marianne Wisenthal

Farmhouse Tavern, 1627 Dupont St., Toronto, text 416-561-9114 for reservations, www.farmhousetavern.tumblr.com