I love a proper diner: no fake nostalgia or designer stools, just clever, comforting, all-Canadian dishes.

Such a spot is Cardinal Rule, a hole-in-the-wall down on Roncesvalles, at Queen. "New management," says the sign, and a clever new menu, too. On weekdays you can get macaroni-and-cheese maki (fusion food at its least pretentious),sammies (some on gluten-free bread) and meatloaf muffins, to stay or to go.

But brunch is my reason to live, so we went on Sunday for the Hail Caesar Eggs Benny. Y'all heard me: a pair of perfect orbs poached in Clamato juice, layered with pickles, worcestershire celery salsa and genoa salami (I subbed for veggie bacon, which is just smoked tofu) atop a white english muffin. For a perfect side, there are super-savoury, excellently potato latkes.

Cardinal Rules. But you knew I'd say that, didn't you? —SNP

5 Roncesvalles Ave., Toronto, 647-352-0202, www.cardinalrulerestaurant.com