Toronto

  • January 20th, 2012

    Paris for rent

    As much as we love room service, crisp linens and a fully loaded mini bar, we’ll forfeit a hotel room for a home away from home.

    Renting an apartment always makes us feel like a local, and the pads on offer over at Haven in Paris are a fantasy realized. This little gem in Montmartre is so charming with its herringbone floors, Louis XVI style chairs and rooftop views. And look at this lovely place in Provence. I could happily spend a few weeks playing house here.

    All properties include a private driver, baby sitter and concierge and a member of the Haven in Paris team will be there to greet you on arrival. Sounds fabulous, doesn’t it? We may never leave. —Athena Tsavliris

    www.haveninparis.com

  • July 14th, 2011

    Paris by Sofa

    We may not be heading to Paris anytime soon, but that doesn’t mean we can immerse ourselves in "La Ville-Lumière," without even leaving the comfort of our couch.

    As far as we’re concerned, Midnight in Paris is the movie must-see of the summer. Follow along with Owen Wilson as he meanders through time, partying with F. Scott Fitzgerald and his irrepressible wife, Zelda, pounding back drinks with Ernest Hemmingway, discussing his own literary merit with Gertrude Stein, and savouring the artistic temperament of Salvador Dali, Picasso and Toulouse Lautrec in Woody Allen’s magical tale of self-exploration and discovery.

    Having had a taste of Paris in the '20s, turn the pages of The Paris Wife by Paula McLain. Told from the point of view of Ernest Hemmingway’s first wife, Hadley Richardson, this beautiful book takes the reader from the initial spark of meeting, to the eventual ashes of their ruined relationship. $18.77 at Amazon.ca

    A sojourn in Paris may be no further than the Internet. We get outfit inspiration from Easy Fashion in Paris, filled with eye-catching photos of fashion fresh from the streets of Paris, turn to Meg Zimbeck’s Eating Paris blog for a feast for the eyes, and soak in the life of La Coquette to imagine our parallel life as an expat in Paris. And sometimes we take a peek into the life of our very own Parisienne à Montréal, editor of Vitamine du Jour, Elsa Vecchi.

    —Jennifer Nachshen

  • November 4th, 2010

    paris, j’adore

    She owned one of Toronto’s most charming boutiques, and after four years of Finn, Amalie Bruun has shut down shop to explore horizons new. Back from an autumn sojourn in Paris, Bruun shares some of her favourite things about a city she’s adored since her first visit, aged 9.

    “I have returned to Paris many times, and each visit leaves me wanting more. I discover new haunts and return to the old favourites.”

    eat

    This was my first visit to Le Verre Vole, having been introduced to it through friends of a friend. Until recently this little restaurant/wine shop only sat about 11 people. Now, having expanded the back as well as the menu, this little place is bustling (reservation required), but charming. The food is classic French fare and well priced. It is a real neighbourhood spot which people return to time and time again.

    shop
    One cannot visit Paris without a stop at Merci. Housed in an old factory and brought to you by the people behind the adorable children's line Bonpoint, Merci is a concept store of clothing, accessories, housewares, linens, school supplies and a cafe. The feeling is light and airy with treasures to be discovered in every corner. While the edited collections from Isabel Marant, Les Prairies de Paris, Acne etc. are amazing, it’s the items for the home that get me every time. Perfectly wrinkled linen aprons, napkins & slip covers, oversized, white painted canvas baskets, perfect little glasses, a myriad of ceramic offerings and of course furniture. Be sure to bring your wallet!

    I discovered Secret Maison on my very last day. It has the same sensibility as Merci, but a much more streamlined approach. Everything in this little place is perfect—sumptuous printed cashmere scarves, gorgeously wrinkled bed linens and curtains in inky greys, blues, cafe au lait, plum and white, rustic baskets, thick, cozy socks. If I were to do it all over again in the retail world, this is exactly the store I have always dreamed of having.

    do

    The largest public park in Paris, Le Jardin de Luxembourg is the official garden of the French Senate, housed on the grounds in the Palais. At any given time, the park is full of people –sitting, reading, running, reflecting. It offers a nice pause in beautiful surroundings – fountains, gardens, wide boulevards, benches and even a tiny theatre, children's playground, tennis and basketball courts. Step inside the massive iron gates if even for a short visit.

    drink
    Great cocktails, great people watching with wrap around tables outside, Le Fumoir is located very close to the Louvre. International newspapers and overstuffed leather couches give this place a bit of an old boy's club feel without the stuffiness.

     

  • June 3rd, 2010

    Say Oui to Paris

    Sure, we go to Paris to admire the impressionists in the Musée d’Orsay or drool over fashion history in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, but we always end up spending most of our time indulging ourselves in food, drink, and shopping.

    sleep
    Located in the working class 20e arondissement, the Philippe Starck-designed hotel Mama Shelter offers urban-oasis styling on a budget. With quirky touches like plastic masks for bedside lamps (our room had Shrek and Princess Fiona), chalkboard ceilings, and elevators wallpapered with fun facts, as well as hallway mirrors listing neighbourhood concerts and events, it’s clear that this Mama is the loving kind. Rooms start at €99/night. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 75020, Paris, +33 (0)1 43 48 48 48, www.mamashelter.com

    eat
    Tucked away from the noisy red-light atmosphere of Le Pigalle is the charming garden courtyard restaurant at the Hotel Amour. Far from its old clientele during its by-the-hour days, the restaurant and bar now cater to a chic crowd who like to dine on tartare de boeuf, then play foosball in the basement. Hotel Restaurant Amour, 8, Rue Navarin, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 48 78 31 80, www.hotelamourparis.fr

    drink
    Hidden behind a vine-covered black gate is Le Très Particulier, the private bar at the Hotel Particulier Montmartre. Knock and say you are there to “boire un verre,” and then let David, the New York bartender, fix you one of his original creations. Reservations are a must. 23, Avenue Junot, 75018 Paris, +33 (0)1 53 41 81 40, www.hotel-particulier-montmartre.com

    shop
    Forget Colette! Merci is the newest lifestyle concept store creating a buzz in Paris. Browse the airy loft for clothes, books, furniture and even flowers. With proceeds going to a foundation helping children and women in Madagascar, designers including Annick Goutal, Yves Saint Laurent, and Stella McCartney offer custom items at 30 per cent off. Merci, 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 42 77 78 92, www.merci-merci.com

     

  • September 24th, 2009

    Paris Wheel

    Paris is best enjoyed one neighbourhood at a time, so we settled in the charming pedestrian area of Montorgueil, once painted by Monet, for a week of pâtisseries, bistros and boutiques.

    stay
    You won’t find many hotels in this quaint Parisian quarter, so opt for the cute and cozy Carroussel rental apartment and its quirky mix of old and new. Up above, old wooden beams, down below, new hardwood floors and a cherry red kitchen that stows a handy washer/dryer. The spot is so quiet, you might be fooled into thinking you’re living outside city limits. €91 per night for seven nights, through Paris Hideaways, http://studio.provaction.com

    eat
    Your morning ritual must include pain au chocolat from the best bakery on the main market street, La Maison Stohrer (pictured), est. 1730. Its pastries are so good, you’ll seriously consider mortgaging your home to have the pâtissier FedEx you a dozen every day. 51, Rue Montorgueil, Paris, +33 01 04 13 01 61, www.stohrer.fr

    drink
    The area is brimming with trendy bars inhabited by Paris' young and restless, so make it your aim to stumble into a different establishment every night. At the simply named 2éme Arrt, you find good drinks, tasty tapas and a friendly owner who’ll join your table and chat you up. 49, Rue Montmartre, Paris, +33 01 40 26 75 51.

    shop
    Down rue Montmartre and its side streets, you’ll find French favourites Cotélac and Zadig & Voltaire. But for those with a shoe fetish, step into 58m for gorgeous soles by French designers Avril Gau, Sartore and Michel Vivien, and soft, sumptuous bags by Jerome Dreyfuss. 58, rue Montmartre, Paris, +33 01 40 26 61 01, www.58m.fr

     

  • July 28th, 2009

    Five Star

    There's no place like home—especially if it comes with room service, Frette sheets and a 24-hour concierge.

    But while we can’t all reside at the Ritz (like Coco Chanel did for over 30 years) we can bring the glitz and glamour of that bygone era into our home.

    At Paris Hotel Boutique you will find unique vintage silver, furnishings, and souvenirs chic enough for the grande dame herself.

    Peruse magnificent mirrors, chandeliers and vanities while daydreaming of a life of Limoges teacups and sterling silver spoons.

    The selection of books is also stunning, with unique tomes on Cecil Beaton, Brassai and Jacqueline Kennedy.

    Now if only online shopping were as quick as room service.

    www.parishotelboutique.com

     

  • January 8th, 2009

    j’adore paris

    Like she was dipped in the sugar plum fairy’s dust, Paris sparkled as we skipped through her streets on our pre-Christmas mini break.

    Stay
    Handily located only steps from the Bon Marché it doesn’t get much better than Le Placide. A true boutique hotel, this 12-room gem is small, private and chic. The rooms are unexpectedly spacious (minimal and white with splashes of Kenzo accents) and the breakfast (artisanal breads, pastries, soft cheeses, cured meats and jams) is a tasty start to the day. From €290 per night. 6 rue Saint Placide, Paris, France. www.leplacidehotel.com

    Shop
    From big name brands to unusual indie labels, shopping in Paris is an experience like no other. Once you’ve fawned over those Frette towels and Goyard vanities, take a stroll over to Cire Trudon for a whiff of the most exquisite candles you’ll ever burn. Established in 1643, this exclusive wax boutique provides candles to churches and castles across France. Leave a corner in your Longchamp for at least one. We’re burning the wonderful ‘Ernesto’—woody, wintery and warm. 78 Rue de Seine, Paris, France. http://ciretrudon.com

    Eat
    At famous Parisian brasserie Relais de l'Entrecôte there is only one decision to make: bleu, saignant, à point or bien cuit. Steak is the only thing on the menu and you can expect plenty of it. The frites are divine as is the tarragon sauce your meat swims in. Various locations,  www.relaisentrecote.fr

    Drink
    Enjoy a warm tisane and lemon macaroons or a glass of bubbles at the Hotel Costes. It’s moodily lit and very chic—the perfect post-shopping pit stop. 239 Rue Saint Honoré, Paris. www.hotelcostes.com

    For more Paris tips and photos, see Toronto's Editors' Diary.

     

  • August 21st, 2008

    LITERARY CRAWL

    If you were picking your holiday spot on the basis of its literary connections, where would you go?

    San Francisco, New York, Florence, Paris, St. Petersburg?

    U.S.–based company Literary Traveler caters to bibliophiles looking to travel into the world of books.

    Literary tours include Montreal, (Mordecai Richler), Florence (Dante Alighieri), and London (Charles Dickens). Or meet Sick Boy on the Trainspotting tour of Leith and Edinburgh. "If it’s a really bad day Sick Boy himself will be behind the bar, serving with a snarl."

    At the other end of the world, follow in the footsteps of Gauguin with exotic idylls in French Polynesia.

    “Life is like a song. You have to enjoy it while it plays because you never know if it will come on again,” Paul Gauguin.

    www.literarytraveler.com

     

  • January 31st, 2008

    Paris Je t’Aime

    Why wait for spring? We like Paris anytime.

    stay

    For an affordable room steps from the Seine, we suggest Hotel Esmerelda. A listed monument, this 17th-century building is a little lopsided but oozes charm. Unfortunately there is no elevator, but the higher you go the better the views of the Notre Dame. From CDN$140/night, 4 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5th, metro St-Michel +33 1 4354 1920.

     

    shop

    Romantic, ethereal and edgy, Moon Younghee is one of our favourite designers working in Paris. She only makes one of each piece and the shop is next to the atelier so you can pop next door to try on your clothes and see the patterns being cut. 62, Rue Charlot, +33 1 48 04 39 78.

    eat

    For the most decadent patisserie in Paris head to Ladurée. The orange flower macaroons coupled with thé Marie Antoinette (a blend of citrus, rose and jasmine) is hard to resist. www.laduree.fr

     

    do

    Rising above the rooflines of the royal palace, Sainte Chapelle is one of the most exquisite churches in the world. On a sunny day, the colours of the floor-to-ceiling stained glass will take your breath away. http://sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/

     

  • December 7th, 2007

    PARIS THE THOUGHT

    Who doesn’t love Paris in the spring? But the culture, cuisine, champagne and shopping are just as fetching in the shoulder season.


    Stay
    Until Shangri-La Hotels finishes the renos on the Bonaparte family mansion, we prefer to stay at the très friendly Hotel Nicolo, just a short walk from the Eiffel Tower. Doubles from $175 including tax and petit dejeuner. www.hotel-nicolo.fr


    Eat
    Rubbing elbows with your neighbours is part of the fun at Left Bank bistro, Le Comptoir. A revered gastro-pub that serves expertly prepared regional, seasonal cuisine. Le Comptoir, 9, Carrefour de l'Odéon.


    Drink
    Culture? Check. Sipping bubbles at the Centre Georges Pompidou’s stunning eatery Georges is art. Absorb the avant-garde, Space Odyssey design and all-male legion of gorgeous French waiters. Stop in at twilight when the city skyline explodes into sparkling lights. www.centrepompidou.fr


    Shop
    Get lost down fabled French streets as you pilgrimage to the surprisingly subtle shop of the red-sole master cobbler, Christian Louboutin. Victor, a virtual Prince Charming, will whisk a stocking upon your weary feet as you step into the world’s most beautiful shoes. Hello Cinderella. 19 Rue Jean- Jacques Rousseau, www.christianlouboutin.fr


    Do
    Leave the masses at Notre Dame and walk over the bridge to quaint Ile Saint Louis for the best ice cream known to man at Berthillon (31, rue St Louis-en-l'Ile). Reminiscent of a 17th Century French village, the island features markets, bakeries, fromageries, cafés and adorable boutiques.