Montreal - TRAVEL & LEISURE
September 2nd, 2010
In a New York Minute
For a bit of fall fun, take yourself on a long weekend to Manhattan, the city that never sleeps.
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Whether it’s your first trip or your fifth, launch your big apple adventure with a stop at the sleek NYC Information Centre. Use interactive touch-screen maps to get local celeb recommendations or create itineraries that can be emailed to your phone. 810 Seventh Ave., New York City, www.nycgo.comshop
We squealed with delight upon discovering vintage-inspired dresses (from $178) at James Coviello. This girlie boutique on the LES carries soft floral numbers that hint at a time when swingy skirts and hourglass figures were the very definition of subtle sex bomb. 70 Orchard St., New York City, 212-695-0842, www.jamescoviello.comsleep
The four-poster beds are divine but you won’t want to sleep at the new Gansevoort Park Avenue. More midtown chic than its Meatpacking sister, it has six bars, a heated roof top pool and spacious rooms with step-out balconies. Order cocktails and nibbles from your assigned iPod GPS and staff will track you down on any floor. And for trips around town, dial up the hotel’s chauffeur-driven Porsche Panamera. How 21st century. Rooms from $325, 420 Park Avenue S., New York City, 877-830-9889, www.gansevoortpark.comeat
We love Sachiko’s On Clinton for traditional Kushiage made from crisp, panko-breaded beef, chicken or veggies served on skewers ($24/10). Sit in the back garden or in view of the restaurant’s striking David Hockney collage. If you’re lucky, Sachiko herself might bring out a bottle of sparkling Nama Sake from behind the bar. 25 Clinton St., New York City, 212-253-2900, www.sachikosonclinton.comAugust 26th, 2010
Spill Your Mind
We’ve got travel-sized versions of our lotions and potions, but post-plane spills are dampening our wanderlust.
Our beauty bag is as dry as a long-haul flight since we discovered Just In Case from Mini Kittour. Designed in California, this leak-proof line of travel containers (from $6) does just as promised, and more. Lotion bottles are squeezable, sprays work 360 degrees with locking lids to prevent seepage and jars are ergonomically designed so you can reach every last drop of Crème de la Mer.Bon voyage.
At 1-877-658-5487, www.minikittour.com
August 19th, 2010
Up Up and Away
Looking for something to cross off the bucket list?
The skies above Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu are awash in color this week for the 27th International Balloon Festival. The largest in Canada, 115 hot-air balloons from Quebec, the U.S., France and Brazil will fly above the Haut-Richlieu. Catch a one-hour 6 a.m. flight or take an evening ride before catching live shows by Les Cowboys Fringants (9 p.m., August 20) and Akon (9 p.m., August 21).Are we scared of heights? That’s just a load of hot air.
Now cue Nena.
Until August 22, flights from $160, reserve at 450-347-9555, www.ballooncanada.com
August 12th, 2010
A River Runs Through It
San Antonio is two cities in one: at street level the Alamo and 18th century mansions are steeped in history, while down below is a bustling riverside nightlife where the nachos are endless and the tequila is smooth.
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Come dusk, staff at Liz Lambert’s recently refurbished Hotel Havana light red tea candles all over the heritage building. We half expected to see the ghost of Hemingway himself sipping rum in the overstuffed club chairs. Our King Suite had dark hardwood floors, a wrought-iron bed and pink SMEG fridge filled with marzipan candy, jalapeño tortilla chips and Patrón Tequila and Chile salt. Rooms from $150. Hotel Havana, 1015 Navarro St., Austin, TX, 210-222-2008, www.havanasanantonio.comdo
Just a few steps down from the Havana, the San Antonio River winds through the city attracting flora, fauna and loved-up couples doing their best PDA. Take a leisurely stroll south towards the hip-happening River Walk area or hop on and off a River Taxi boat ($10/24hrs).art and eat
North of downtown, the San Antonio Museum of Art is in a former brewery that’s home to Latin American cherubs, Egyptian mummies and paintings by Philip Guston (tickets $8). Stop for lunch at the museum’s picturesque Café des Artistes. We ate Lobster Bisque ($13) and Tuna Tartare ($15) on the terrace overlooking a pretty bend in the river. San Antonio Museum of Art, 200 W. Jones Ave., Austin, TX, 210-978-8100, www.samuseum.orgshop
We picked up a fetching black and white Bailey Panama ($65) at Paris Hatters and Audrey Hepburn-esque black wool pedal pushers at The Violet Hour, an eclectic boutique carrying Elizabeth & James and T-shirts featuring Chevy Chase.
Paris Hatters, 119 Broadway, Austin, TX, 210-223-3453, www.parishatters.com
The Violet Hour, 6346 N. New Braunfels, Austin, TX, 210-829-0388, www.shoptheviolethour.comSee more from Montreal editor Marianne Wisenthal’s San Antonio trip on our Editors’ Diary.
August 5th, 2010
Princely Pleasures
Fine foodie heaven lies four hours west of Montreal in glorious Prince Edward County. Along its Taste Trail you’ll find high-tech vineyards, fine inns, artisanal cheese and fresh veggies fit for royalty.
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Set in a yellow colonial mansion, the romantic Claramount Inn & Spa is filled with fine French antiques, cozy nooks and a 92-degree salt-water pool. Our lovely nautical-themed suite was massive with skylights, crisp sheets and pretty views of Picton Bay (rooms from $175). 97 Bridge St., Picton, 1-800-679-7756, www.claramountinn.comeat
At the Claramount’s Clara’s dining room, chef Kelly Attwell creates seasonal fare with “whatever is fresh.” We love the Asian twists like ghee seared chicken and Great Lakes perch with wasabi aioli, and how the beets in our creamy cumin soup were grown in the Inn’s garden. Do book a table on the wraparound porch.spa
With aquatic massages in the pool and beer pedicures for boys, the Claramount Spa has an endless menu of forward thinking treatments. During our LomiLomi ($105) massage we listened to tribal tunes while a Hawaian-trained therapist worked us over with deep breathing and long sweeping movements. Aloha!drink
One of the oldest wineries in PEC, Huff Estates produces great vintages using traditional French techniques in a high-tech facility (the barrel cellar is gravity-fed). We adored the 2008 Riesling Off-Dry ($18) with notes of caramel and peach. On your way out stop at the winery’s on-site Oeno Gallery for a peek at local contemporary art. Huff Estates Winery, 2274 County Rd. 1, Bloomfield, 613-393-5802, www.huffestates.comdo
You’ll find dairy delight at the wind-powered Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Co. Over 26 varieties of cow, goat and sheep cheeses are handmade in a LEED rated building, then beautifully aged in subterranean caves. We mooed over the creamy Rose Haus with Chardonnay and baahed at the tangy Lemon Fetish with red fife flour rind. 4309 County Rd. #8, R.R. 4, Picton, 613-476-5755, www.fifthtown.caJuly 29th, 2010
Great Lake Swimmers
Not many Niagara vintages make it to Quebec, so we head west to Niagara-on-the-Lake. This twee town on the banks of Lake Ontario is steeped in history and swimming in wine.
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Set in a former cannery the cozy Pillar and Post is the perfect wine-country hideaway with exposed brick walls, giant skylights and terracotta floors. The summer Duos Package includes overnight stay, bottle of local wine, chocolate-dipped strawberries, vineyard tasting, tours and breakfast (from $120/pp until August 31). Pillar and Post, 48 John St. W., 905-468-2123, www.vintage-hotels.com/pillarandpost
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Try a flight of wines at herbicide-free Lailey Vineyard. We loved the citrusy 2008 Riesling, while the Queen herself sipped glasses of 2007 Canadian Oak Pinot Noir ($35/bottle). If it’s good enough for Her Majesty, it’s good enough for us. Lailey Vineyard, 15940 Niagara Parkway, 905-468-0503, www.laileyvineyard.com
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Too many sips of Cab Franc? Book in for a refreshing Bamboo and Wine Scrub ($85) at the Pillar and Post’s 13,000 square foot 100 Fountain Spa. After your skin has been soothed and smoothed with locally harvested grape seeds, take a dip in the outdoor hot springs and dream of wineries yet to be conquered. 100 Fountain Spa, Pillar and Post, 48 John St. W., 1-888-669-5566, www.vintage-hotels.com/pillarandpost/spa.htm
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Stop and smell the flowers at a Neob Lavender Boutique. Take a tour of the fields and see how they distill Rose Geranium, Lemongrass, French and English Lavenders into sweet smelling essential oils ($5.50), pillow sprays and shampoo ($15). 758 Niagara Stone Rd., 905-682-0171, www.neobboutique.comJuly 15th, 2010
Keep Calm and Carry On
Between sunscreen, water bottles and that extra pairs of shoes, it seems we’re always carrying more than our share.
If you’re going to schlep this summer, do it in style with a bright Mirabel Shopper tote ($145) from Montreal accessory line WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie. Made from sturdy organic cotton and trimmed in leather, it comes in east-west or north-south format that can be rolled up in your suitcase. Even better there are two inner shoe pockets. It’s sold in the men’s section but really, what do boys need to carry around anyway?
At Holt Renfrew, 1300 Sherbrooke St. W., Montreal, 514-842-5111, www.holtrenfrew.com
July 8th, 2010
Adventures in Austin
More than just two-steppin’ and trailers, in Austin, Texas you’ll find slow food cuisine, effortless cool and lots and lots of tequila. Yee ha!
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With its rock ’n’ roll décor and laid-back vibe, the Hotel Saint Cecilia is like having your own SoCo bolthole. Our poolside bungalow was fitted with a shower for two (or three), vintage turntable and mini-bar filled with flatbread and brie. We sat on our private terrace, sipping spicy margaritas and listening to Al Green records from the hotel library. Rooms from $350, 112 Academy Dr., Austin, TX, 512-852-2400, www.hotelsaintcecilia.comeat
The burgeoning 2nd Street District is home to La Condesa serving up Mexican City street food with a modern edge. Give them three days notice and they’ll roast a whole suckling pig just for you! We tried mini tostados with squid, tuna and chipotle mayo ($12) followed by Carne Aasada ($32). With over 80 varieties on offer, do indulge in tasting flights of Mezcal and Blanco tequilas (from $15) while the ‘sommelier’ explains smoky vs. smooth. Muy caliente! 400a West 2nd St., Austin, TX, 512-499-0300, www.lacondesaaustin.comeat more
Austin’s hippest new 'hood lies east of the I-35 where we discovered East Side Show Room, a former 1920s grocery store revamped with a breezy back patio, local art and farm-raised food (all suppliers are listed on the menu) like antelope tartar ($14) and snapper baked in parchment paper ($22). 1100 East 6th St., Austin, TX, 512-467-4280, www.eastsideshowroom.comdo
Take yourself to the roller derby show for live bands and babes on skates. Every weekend the Lonestar Rollergirls compete on a banked-track, knocking down teams like the Tonya Hardings and Rhinestone Cowgirls. We wouldn’t want to meet these gals in a dark alley but after a couple of Shiner beers we found ourselves cheering wildly for the Cherry Bombs. Tickets from $13 at www.txrd.comsee
For something tamer, the LBJ Library and Museum celebrates the former president and his flower-loving wife, Lady Bird. Her hosting prowess, elegant gowns and pink-toned office reminded us that Jackie wasn’t the only glam first lady of the 1960s. 2313 Red River St., Austin, TX, 512-721-0200, www.lbjlibrary.orgshop
At modish boutique by george (524 North Lamar Blvd., 512-472-5951, Austin, TX) you’ll fawn over Balenciaga purses, silk Dries Van Noten dresses and sassy platforms from Fiorentini & Baker. Can’t break the bank? We took the staff’s advice and drove 30-minutes south to San Marcos Premium Outlets (the third largest in the world) for jaw-dropping deals on Fendi frocks, La Perla panties and Ferragamo flats. Premium Outlets, 3939 South IH-35, San Marcos, TX, 512-396-2200.For more on Montreal editor Marianne Wisenthal’s Austin adventure, visit today’s Editors’ Diary.
June 18th, 2010
Austin Has Powers
We’ve always relished spending the day in our bathrobe.
We did just that at the luscious Lake Austin Spa Resort in Texan Hill Country (glam girls Renee Z. and Sandra B. have lounged here). We followed up our mind-blowing Seven Centers Life Chakra Massage ($195) with laps in the pool barn and lunch made from herbs picked in the spa’s organic garden.Overnighters can sign up for cooking classes with Food Network chefs, take a bird-watching cruise or do yoga on the dock. Book a lake-view room with private porch, or feel like a First Lady in the sumptuous Lady Bird Suite with fine antiques, hot tub and private wildflower garden.
We may never get dressed again.
Three-night packages from US$1555, Lake Austin Spa Resort, 1705 South Quinlan Park Road, Austin, Texas, 1-800-847-5637, www.lakeaustin.com
June 10th, 2010
Hidden Berlin
With secret shops, members-only hotels, and clubs tucked away behind unmarked doors, Berlin is the perfect city for the coolhunting traveler.
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It may be a private club, but non-members can soak up the luxury of the brand new Soho House Berlin. Renovated from a 1920s department store, the late Bauhaus structure offers a blend of old Berlin glamour and modern industrial style. Even booking one of the small attic rooms allows full use of the members-only areas, including the club floor with a roof top heated swimming pool and stunning views of downtown Berlin. Rooms from 100 Euros/night (75 for Members), Soho House Berlin, Torstraße 1, 30 40 50 440, www.sohohouseberlin.comeat
CHIPPS is the easy-to-find sister restaurant to the famously hidden-in-an-alley CookiesCream. Dine in industrial chic surroundings, choosing a base, such as cheese dumplings or potato pancakes, and then piling on fresh veggies and savory sauces. CHIPPS, Jägerstraße 35, 30 36 444 588, www.chipps.eudrink
Concealed under a bridge and behind an unmarked metal door is the coolest place in Berlin, Bar Tausend, where you can sip a Moscow Mule on sleek couches with the sexiest people in the city. Think you’re in-the-know just because you made it past the strict doorman? Think again. There’s a back room that’s even harder to get to. Bar Tausend, Schiffbauerdamm 11, 30 41 715 396, www.tausenberlin.comtour
Step off of that double-decker tour bus and see the insider’s Berlin with Berlinagenten. Our ultra-cool guide took us from concealed cafés and secret storefronts in the downtown core to a champagne-soaked soirée in the home of an ex glamour model from Disco-era West Berlin. Did she spill about secret trysts with celebs? We’ll never tell. www.berlinagenten.comSorry, Berlin. Your secret’s out.


