San Antonio is two cities in one: at street level the Alamo and 18th century mansions are steeped in history, while down below is a bustling riverside nightlife where the nachos are endless and the tequila is smooth.

sleep
Come dusk, staff at Liz Lambert’s recently refurbished Hotel Havana light red tea candles all over the heritage building. We half expected to see the ghost of Hemingway himself sipping rum in the overstuffed club chairs. Our King Suite had dark hardwood floors, a wrought-iron bed and pink SMEG fridge filled with marzipan candy, jalapeño tortilla chips and Patrón Tequila and Chile salt. Rooms from $150. Hotel Havana, 1015 Navarro St., Austin, TX, 210-222-2008, www.havanasanantonio.com

do
Just a few steps down from the Havana, the San Antonio River winds through the city attracting flora, fauna and loved-up couples doing their best PDA. Take a leisurely stroll south towards the hip-happening River Walk area or hop on and off a River Taxi boat ($10/24hrs).

art and eat

shop
We picked up a fetching black and white Bailey Panama ($65) at Paris Hatters and Audrey Hepburn-esque black wool pedal pushers at The Violet Hour, an eclectic boutique carrying Elizabeth & James and T-shirts featuring Chevy Chase.
Paris Hatters, 119 Broadway, Austin, TX, 210-223-3453, www.parishatters.com
The Violet Hour, 6346 N. New Braunfels, Austin, TX, 210-829-0388, www.shoptheviolethour.com

See more from Montreal editor Marianne Wisenthal’s San Antonio trip on our Editors’ Diary.

More than just two-steppin’ and trailers, in Austin, Texas you’ll find slow food cuisine, effortless cool and lots and lots of tequila. Yee ha!

sleep
With its rock ’n’ roll décor and laid-back vibe, the Hotel Saint Cecilia is like having your own SoCo bolthole. Our poolside bungalow was fitted with a shower for two (or three), vintage turntable and mini-bar filled with flatbread and brie. We sat on our private terrace, sipping spicy margaritas and listening to Al Green records from the hotel library. Rooms from $350, 112 Academy Dr., Austin, TX, 512-852-2400, www.hotelsaintcecilia.com

eat
The burgeoning 2nd Street District is home to La Condesa serving up Mexican City street food with a modern edge. Give them three days notice and they’ll roast a whole suckling pig just for you! We tried mini tostados with squid, tuna and chipotle mayo ($12) followed by Carne Aasada ($32). With over 80 varieties on offer, do indulge in tasting flights of Mezcal and Blanco tequilas (from $15) while the ‘sommelier’ explains smoky vs. smooth.  Muy caliente! 400a West 2nd St., Austin, TX, 512-499-0300, www.lacondesaaustin.com

eat more
Austin’s hippest new 'hood lies east of the I-35 where we discovered East Side Show Room, a former 1920s grocery store revamped with a breezy back patio, local art and farm-raised food (all suppliers are listed on the menu) like antelope tartar ($14) and snapper baked in parchment paper ($22). 1100 East 6th St., Austin, TX, 512-467-4280, www.eastsideshowroom.com

do
Take yourself to the roller derby show for live bands and babes on skates. Every weekend the Lonestar Rollergirls compete on a banked-track, knocking down teams like the Tonya Hardings and Rhinestone Cowgirls. We wouldn’t want to meet these gals in a dark alley but after a couple of Shiner beers we found ourselves cheering wildly for the Cherry Bombs. Tickets from $13 at www.txrd.com

see
For something tamer, the LBJ Library and Museum celebrates the former president and his flower-loving wife, Lady Bird. Her hosting prowess, elegant gowns and pink-toned office reminded us that Jackie wasn’t the only glam first lady of the 1960s. 2313 Red River St., Austin, TX, 512-721-0200, www.lbjlibrary.org

shop
At modish boutique by george (524 North Lamar Blvd., 512-472-5951, Austin, TX) you’ll fawn over Balenciaga purses, silk Dries Van Noten dresses and sassy platforms from Fiorentini & Baker. Can’t break the bank? We took the staff’s advice and drove 30-minutes south to San Marcos Premium Outlets (the third largest in the world) for jaw-dropping deals on Fendi frocks, La Perla panties and Ferragamo flats. Premium Outlets, 3939 South IH-35, San Marcos, TX, 512-396-2200.

For more on Montreal editor Marianne Wisenthal’s Austin adventure, visit today’s Editors’ Diary.

We’ve always relished spending the day in our bathrobe.

We did just that at the luscious Lake Austin Spa Resort in Texan Hill Country (glam girls Renee Z. and Sandra B. have lounged here). We followed up our mind-blowing Seven Centers Life Chakra Massage ($195) with laps in the pool barn and lunch made from herbs picked in the spa’s organic garden.

Overnighters can sign up for cooking classes with Food Network chefs, take a bird-watching cruise or do yoga on the dock. Book a lake-view room with private porch, or feel like a First Lady in the sumptuous Lady Bird Suite with fine antiques, hot tub and private wildflower garden.

We may never get dressed again.

Three-night packages from US$1555, Lake Austin Spa Resort, 1705 South Quinlan Park Road, Austin, Texas, 1-800-847-5637, www.lakeaustin.com