Montreal
June 16th, 2011
Sweet Kamouraska Holiday
When relaxation requires leaving the real world behind, a trip to beautiful Kamouraska may be just the ticket to total de-stressing. With just one main road, a few quaint shops and restaurants, and a stunning view of the St.Lawrence River, you’ll finally be able to focus on finding some inner peace.
stay
There are a number of Bed & Breakfasts dotting the main road, but why bother with eggs and toast when you can wake up to the scent of melting chocolate? We stayed at the new Bed & Chocolate at La Fée Gourmade (from $120) and luxuriated in our suite’s fluffy bed, steamed ourselves into submission in the lovely hammam shower (complete with organic chocolate-scented soaps from nearby Le Quai des Bulles), and gorged ourselves silly on the chocolaterie’s delicious treats. Indulge in the one of the B&C’s sweet package deals to include a tasting workshop and box of 16 chocolates starting at $150. La Fée Gourmande, 167 Morel Ave., Kamouraska, 418-492-3030, www.lafeegourmande.caeat
If you can’t stomach truffles first thing in the morning, you can easily jaunt over to the Auberge des Iles to sip coffee in the solarium, or start the day in true Québecois style at the Casse-Croute Co-sette. Definitely pick up a loaf of deliciously dense German bread at the Boulangerie Niemand and stock upon freshly smoked salmon at the Poissonerie Lauzier. Finally, relax with a bottle of wine and a seafood plate at the Café du Clocher (run by the most eligible bachelor in town, Jean-Pierre).
Auberge des Iles, 198 Morel Ave., Kamouraska, 418 492-7561, www.aubergedesiles.ca
Restaurant La Co-Sette, 53 Morel Ave., Kamouraska, 418-492-2675.
Boulangerie Niemand, 82 Morel Ave., Kamouraska, 418-492-1236.
Poissonnerie Lauzier, 57 Morel Ave.,Kamouraska, 418 492-7988.
Café Du Clocher, 90 Morel Ave., Kamouraska, 418-492-7365.spa
Not content to end our chocolate bender, we enjoyed a rejuvenating chocolate and coffee scrub ($70) at La Grand Voile Centre du Santé et Auberge. But don’t worry if you’ve maxed out on sweets, there are plenty of cleansing and refreshing massages and treatments to be had at this gorgeous mansion.
La Grand Voile, 168 Morel Ave, Kamouraska, 418-492-2539, www.lagrandvoile.casee
Keep an eye out for penguins, seals and a miracle pod of Beluga whales as you speed across the waves during this 1.5 hour Zodiak tour ($35) of the Kamouraska islands. Just be sure to wear your wellies and a windbreaker, as this wild ride can get chilly and wet!
Embark at the Kamouraska pier, 418-863-3132, www.zodiacaventure.comSee more from our trip to Kamouraska on today's Editors' Diary. —JN
June 2nd, 2011
La Vie en Rosés
Nothing says summer like sipping a glass of rosé with a beautiful view of the vineyard. Alas, not many of us have a backyard winery, so we’re heading out to the Eastern Townships to tour the wine route.
Kava Tours offers a variety of round-trips to and from the Townships (tours start at $89 per person), so you don’t have to worry about tasting too many. We started our day with a delicious ice rosé wine at the lovely Domaine Côte d’Ardoise, followed by a beautiful lunch, complete with strawberry gazpacho and rhubarb pie at Domaine les Brome, a converted cabane à sucre. Our final stop at the Domaine Vitis included a picnic-style snack of artisanal cheese and pain au lardons alongside their delicately fruity rosé. But for the perfect girls’ getaway we recommend celebrating Les Roses en Fêtes (until June 26).Taste the world through rosé-coloured glasses. Wine glasses, that is. —JN
April 7th, 2011
Mountain High
We recently trekked out to Tremblant to get away from the dirty city snow and revel in the great white north. But our version of a “country getaway” has more to do with sipping wine by a roaring fire than roughing it in the wild.
We loved our stay in the luxury log cabin stylings of the four-star Côté Nord Tremblant Resort located less than 6 minutes from Tremblant’s north face. These stunning and spacious two to six room cabins (starting at $280/night) are fully loaded, with WiFi, iPod docks, a complete kitchen, ready-chopped firewood, and even a Jacuzzi in some cabins. You can order champagne, a gourmet meal and a Swedish massage right to your door. But why stay inside when there’s skiing, sledding, snowshoeing and a Spa Scandinave so close by?
We loved our stay so much, we’re planning to return in the summer to enjoy some lakeside activities, like BBQing, leisurely flipping through magazines and sipping summery drinks on the deck.
Maybe we’re the rugged outdoorsy type after all.
Côté Nord Tremblant, 141 Chemin Tour Du Lac, Lac-Supérieur, QC, 1-888-268-3667, www.cotenordtremblant.com
December 23rd, 2010
Winter At Its Peak
Instead of fleeing to the beach this winter, why not face the flurries head on with a stay at the Jay Peak Resort. We recently stopped in for a weekend getaway that combined three of our favourite things: skiing, spa-ing, and sipping wine by the fire.
ski
Even though it is just 6.5 km south of the Quebec border, Jay Peak gets the most snow of any mountain in eastern North America. There’s plenty of adventure to be had if you accept their invitation to head off-piste and into the Glades (you can take a lesson). Just remember to ski between the trees and not into them! 76 trails, lift ticket $69, www.jaypeakresort.com
stay
We bunked into a 1-bedroom suite decorated with pieces by local artisans at the newly built Tram Haus Lodge (rooms start at $129, lift ticket included). With a view of the chairlift from our living room window, a fully stocked kitchenette, two flat-screen TVs, and a cozy overstuffed duvet on the bed, we felt like we were in our own private ski-in chalet, but with housekeeping service! Call 1-800-451-4449 or book online.
spa
Soothe your mogul-marred muscles with a deep tissue massage ($129) at the Taiga spa. We booked with shiatsu –specialist, Aubrey, who taught us the meaning of the phrase “sweet pain” as he kneaded our knots into submission. After adding in an individualized facial using B. Kamins products, we left feeling relaxed, revived, and ready to get back out on the slopes.
sup
The breakfast buffet at Alice’s Table, piled high with pancakes, two kinds of sausage, bacon, fruit smoothies, omelettes and pastries, is all you need to prepare you for a full day on the slopes. Head back at night to dine on locally sourced ingredients, including the grilled porkchop stuffed with caramelized onions, cranberries, pecans and a Vermont maple cumin glaze. Jay Peak, 4850 VT Route 242, Jay, Vermont, 802-988-2611, www.jaypeakresort.comNovember 25th, 2010
Cool Quebec
The recently gentrified Quartier Saint Roch district of Quebec City offers travellers an off-the-beaten-track taste of urban cool. We stayed for a weekend and barely had to leave the block.
stay
We lay our weary heads on fresh, white linen at the loft-style Hotel Pur (rooms start at $139/ night), listed in Condé Nast Traveller’s Red Hot List, 2009. Minimalist in appearance but not in amenities, we took in the stunning view of the Saint Roch church through our room’s floor-to-ceiling windows, enjoyed a leisurely soak in the deep Japanese-style tub, and relished our post-swim morning smoothie made from fresh strawberries and Thai basil. Hotel Pur, 395 de la Couronne St., Quebec City, 418-647-261, www.hotelpur.comdine
Indulgence is on the menu at Versa Restaurant. A decadent appetizer of foie gras with homemade donuts ($19.95) had us licking our forks clean, followed by a saintly (in comparison) olive oil poached swordfish ($38.95). We returned to hedonism with a duo of veal topped with bacon ($39.59) followed by a positively pious mini lemon tart ($9.95). Lemons are fruit, right? Versa Restaurant, 432 du Parvis St., Quebec City, 418-523-9995, www.versarestaurant.comdrink
Sip on creative cocktails (we loved the Pear Ale with gin, pear puree and ginger ale, $8.50) and choose to chill upstairs or dance downstairs at Le Boudoir Lounge. Le Boudoir Lounge, 441 du Parvis St., 418-524-2777, www.boudoirlounge.comshop
Pick up beautiful French-from-France lingerie from Flirt, including Aubade, Simone Perele and Chantelle. Or you can support our local French designers, like Mélissa Nepton and Eve Gravel by shopping at Boutique Novo. Flirt, 525 St. Joseph St. East, Quebec City, 418-529-5221. Boutique Novo, 708 St. Joseph St. East, Quebec City, 418-614-8098, www.boutiquenovo.comFor Jenn Nachshen's photos from her weekend in Quebec City, please visit the vitaminwater canada blog.
November 5th, 2010
Wake Up to Whistler
stay
Whistler’s best kept secret—till now—is Nita Lake Lodge. New ownership has brought in a killer kitchen brigade, an Ayurvedic spa, a rooftop garden and has stocked the lake with trout (they’ll even loan you a rod and tackle at the front desk). The large and luxurious rooms with lakefront views are just as inviting as ever. Rooms from $189. Nita Lake Lodge, 2131 Lake Placid Rd. Whistler, B.C., 888-755-6482, www.nitalakelodge.com 
do
This serene part of the Valley Trail calls for biking or cross-country skiing, and once the lake freezes over, look for ice hockey games organized by the Lodge. In summer, the pretty Alta Lake park and playground with boat launch is just steps away. In November, it's wine-tasting time at Cornucopia.
eat
Nita Lake’s Aura restaurant serves up locally foraged mushrooms, Pemberton-grown heirloom beets and artichokes from the Lodge’s own rooftop. Bison flatirons, Sloping Hills porchetta and side-striped prawns are the smartly-sourced support staff to the vegetable-forward menu.
après
Cozy up by the fire in the Cure Lounge at Nita Lake where the thick-cut buttermilk onion rings ($5) are not to be missed. On tap is France’s Kronenbourg 1664—a match made in heaven. Or Whistler. It's all the same to us.September 2nd, 2010
In a New York Minute
For a bit of fall fun, take yourself on a long weekend to Manhattan, the city that never sleeps.
do
Whether it’s your first trip or your fifth, launch your big apple adventure with a stop at the sleek NYC Information Centre. Use interactive touch-screen maps to get local celeb recommendations or create itineraries that can be emailed to your phone. 810 Seventh Ave., New York City, www.nycgo.comshop
We squealed with delight upon discovering vintage-inspired dresses (from $178) at James Coviello. This girlie boutique on the LES carries soft floral numbers that hint at a time when swingy skirts and hourglass figures were the very definition of subtle sex bomb. 70 Orchard St., New York City, 212-695-0842, www.jamescoviello.comsleep
The four-poster beds are divine but you won’t want to sleep at the new Gansevoort Park Avenue. More midtown chic than its Meatpacking sister, it has six bars, a heated roof top pool and spacious rooms with step-out balconies. Order cocktails and nibbles from your assigned iPod GPS and staff will track you down on any floor. And for trips around town, dial up the hotel’s chauffeur-driven Porsche Panamera. How 21st century. Rooms from $325, 420 Park Avenue S., New York City, 877-830-9889, www.gansevoortpark.comeat
We love Sachiko’s On Clinton for traditional Kushiage made from crisp, panko-breaded beef, chicken or veggies served on skewers ($24/10). Sit in the back garden or in view of the restaurant’s striking David Hockney collage. If you’re lucky, Sachiko herself might bring out a bottle of sparkling Nama Sake from behind the bar. 25 Clinton St., New York City, 212-253-2900, www.sachikosonclinton.comJuly 29th, 2010
Great Lake Swimmers
Not many Niagara vintages make it to Quebec, so we head west to Niagara-on-the-Lake. This twee town on the banks of Lake Ontario is steeped in history and swimming in wine.
sleep
Set in a former cannery the cozy Pillar and Post is the perfect wine-country hideaway with exposed brick walls, giant skylights and terracotta floors. The summer Duos Package includes overnight stay, bottle of local wine, chocolate-dipped strawberries, vineyard tasting, tours and breakfast (from $120/pp until August 31). Pillar and Post, 48 John St. W., 905-468-2123, www.vintage-hotels.com/pillarandpost
sip and swirl
Try a flight of wines at herbicide-free Lailey Vineyard. We loved the citrusy 2008 Riesling, while the Queen herself sipped glasses of 2007 Canadian Oak Pinot Noir ($35/bottle). If it’s good enough for Her Majesty, it’s good enough for us. Lailey Vineyard, 15940 Niagara Parkway, 905-468-0503, www.laileyvineyard.com
spa
Too many sips of Cab Franc? Book in for a refreshing Bamboo and Wine Scrub ($85) at the Pillar and Post’s 13,000 square foot 100 Fountain Spa. After your skin has been soothed and smoothed with locally harvested grape seeds, take a dip in the outdoor hot springs and dream of wineries yet to be conquered. 100 Fountain Spa, Pillar and Post, 48 John St. W., 1-888-669-5566, www.vintage-hotels.com/pillarandpost/spa.htm
do
Stop and smell the flowers at a Neob Lavender Boutique. Take a tour of the fields and see how they distill Rose Geranium, Lemongrass, French and English Lavenders into sweet smelling essential oils ($5.50), pillow sprays and shampoo ($15). 758 Niagara Stone Rd., 905-682-0171, www.neobboutique.comMay 27th, 2010
Commute to Nature
We thought the phrase “white sandy Quebec beaches” was an oxymoron until we spent a weekend at Auberge du Lac Taureau in Saint-Michel-des-Saints, Quebec.
sleep
We were so enchanted by the view of the sandy shore from the balcony of our cosmopolitan-condo-meets-country-cottage apartment, only the smell of pine trees reminded us we were still in Quebec. The recently renovated rooms bring together modern comfort and back-to-nature beauty. Condos start at $385; single rooms start at $143. do
Enjoy the beauty of the Lanaudière region by hiking or mountain biking through the trails that wind their way around the hotel, swim or boat, or even pick up a game of beach volleyball. Maybe you’ll find a nice young man to teach you how to spike (even if you already know).relax
The hotel spa brings the outdoors in, with natural treatments like the Native body scrub, shower and body milk application ($75).eat
After a long day of beach fun, the delicious four course meal ($40) in the Auberge’s dining room highlighted local ingredients. We started with the soft and sweet braised venison with bok choy, and then moved on to a succulent Wapiti medallion with foie gras sauce.And, of course, we stopped at one of the many Casse-Croutes lining our drive home for a tasty poutine. Just to make sure we were really and truly still in Quebec.
Auberge du Lac Taureau, 1200, chemin Baie du Milieu, Saint-Michel-des-Saints, Quebec , 450-833-1919, Toll Free: 1-877-VACANCE , www.lactaureau.com
See photos from our trip on today's Editors' Diary.
November 5th, 2009
Mountain Missy
To survive the season of snow, slush and ice we’re plotting restful winter weekends on the Laurentian slopes of Mont-Tremblant, Quebec.
sleep
For proximity to the lifts, stay at the chateau-style Fairmont Tremblant. We love the Canadiana décor, wood-burning fireplaces and slopeside four-poster bed Junior Suites with Hudson’s Bay Point blankets. Staff are top notch, especially Gracie the hotel’s yellow-lab Canine Ambassador who takes dog-walking appointments. Rooms from $139, Fairmont Tremblant, 3045 Chemin de la Chapelle, 866-540-4415, www.fairmont.com/tremblanteat
Instead of casse-croûte calories, build up your black-diamond stamina at the Fairmont’s Nansen Lounge. Chef Daniel Tobien’s French Onion Soup with Tremblant Beer and Oka Cheese ($9) is divine. Follow it up with feuilletée crusted Alsatian Flambé Tart served on cherry wood panels and a glass of organic Costières de Nîmes white ($10).do
Try your hand at lady-luck by visiting Tremblant’s new mountain-side casino. With massive windows and all-natural wood, it sits among the trees and boasts a stunning local art collection. Ride the spectacular gondola or ski yourself in and out. Grab your winnings and head down to the village to stock up on pink flannel bear-print Hatley jammies ($65.99). Casino Mont-Tremblant, 300 Chemin des Pléiades, 819-429-4150. Hatley, 16 Chemin De Kandarhar, 819-681-4551, www.hatleystore.comdip
End the weekend soothing sore muscles with a hot-cold regime at Le Scandinave. Set in the forest, this Nordic-style spa features hot tubs, cool baths, outdoor fireplaces and relaxation rooms ensuring you’ll be calm as a cucumber on the highway home. From $43/day, Le Scandinave Spa, 4280 Montée Ryan, 819-425-5524, www.scandinavetremblant.comSee photos from Marianne Wisenthal’s trip up the mountain on today’s Editors’ Diary.
