June 10th, 2011
Plenty of Fish
Finally, an Ossington spot as full of fish as every other west-end restaurant is of meat.
Call it nose-to-fin eating. Fishbar, newly opened by William Tavares (Le Gourmand, Salt), has every kind of (mostly) sustainable fish in the sea, from wee smelts ($6) to whole grilled sardines ($7) to tuna loin ($13). Even the drinks are fishy; why isn't every Caesar a shrimp Caesar? Wine list is decent; oysters are musky and fresh.
Dishes are best enjoyed tapas-style, with friends. My favourite? A tangy trout rillette with more crostini on demand. Servers are still getting their sea legs, but food-wise, Fishbar is swimming. —SNP
217 Ossington Ave., Toronto, 647-340-0227, www.fishbar.ca