March 4th, 2011
Koko Goes Italian
When we heard that chef Michele Forgione was taking over the kitchen at Koko Restaurant in the Opus hotel, we wondered how his expertise in Italian cuisine would fuse with the restaurant’s traditionally Asian feel.
There’s still sushi on the menu, but why bother when you can feast on Forgione’s signature Italian fare? We started with a plate of silky porchetta di testa ($9) and perfectly charred grilled octopus ($16). We’d been strongly advised to order the pillowy homemade ricotta gnocchi with a satisfying short rib ragout ($18) and boy were we glad we did. We also loved the Sicilian rabbit with green olives, pistachios and raisins ($26) and the flaky, herb-sauced sea bass with winter panzanella salad ($24).
After finishing off with a plate of hot churros with hot chocolate dipping sauce, we knew we were entirely over the old Koko.
Out with the old, in with the gnocchi! —JN
Koko, 8 Sherbrooke St. W., Montreal, 514-657-5656, www.kokomontreal.com